How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)

How to Replace a Transmission (Full DIY Guide)
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    Hey guys chrisfix here
    And today i'm gonna show you how to remove and install a transmission in your car or your truck
    Now the reason why you might need to remove a transmission may be you're going to send it out to get rebuilt
    Or maybe you have a clutch that's wearing out. So you need to replace the clutch
    You can also have an oil leak at the rear of your engine where the engine and transmission meet and that could be an indication
    That you have a bad rear main seal
    You could have a bad pilot bearing or a bad throw up bearing which is exactly what happened to my Mustang listen to this
    So if we're in neutral and we go to start the car
    Take our foot off the clutch
    And that's a bad throw out bearing watch this if I press on the clutch it goes away
    But when I take my foot off the clutch it comes right back
    So before I cause any damage
    I'm going to shut this off and let's get that fixed now in order to replace the throw up bearing as well as the other
    Parts that I mentioned you need to drop the transmission out of the car or truck, but don't worry. It's not that difficult
    I'm going to show you all my tips and tricks on how to remove the transmission and then how to install it so that you'll
    Be able to do this at home yourself and here are all the tools that you're going to need
    You're going to need a ratchet a good socket set some
    Extensions and you're definitely going to want one of these universal joint extensions to get to the hard-to-reach bolts
    You're going to want a couple of wrenches torque wrench and possibly a breaker bar. You're also gonna need a jack and jack stands
    You're gonna need a drain pan and some transmission fluid and I highly suggest getting a transmission jack
    I see a lot of guys try to take the transmission out using a regular jack a lot of times the transmission Allah for over
    You could crack the case. That would be a very expensive mistake. This is inexpensive
    I'll link it in the description totally worth the get you could strap down the transmission
    It'll just make your job that much easier with the amount of money that you're saving
    It's totally worth the investment and that's just about everything you're gonna need to remove and install a transmission
    So with that being said, let me show you the 10 steps to remove the transmission first
    We need to safely lift the vehicle then remove the negative battery cable remove the shifter exhaust drain the transmission fluid disconnect the driveshaft
    remove the starter remove and set aside the wiring harness unbolt the transmission mount and
    Unbolt and remove the transmission and while that might seem like a lot it's really not that bad
    what I did is I broke it down to a bunch of
    Smaller easy to accomplish steps so that as we do this job
    We could stay organized and I will include a link in the description
    - this checklist so you could download it and print it if you want to use it with that said let's get started and the
    First step is to lift and support the vehicle
    and as you can see
    I already safely lifted the car up and put it on jack stands just like you would any time you're working on your car
    But I do have a few tips and tricks
    Specifically for if you're removing the transmission, so let's cover them
    And the first one is you need to make sure that your car is lifted high enough to remove a transmission
    Transmissions are pretty big. So you need enough room to drop it down and slide it out in this case
    I couldn't use ramps because my lowered car just wouldn't get lifted high enough
    Well now if you have a lift at home great use it, but most people including myself don't have a lift
    So I'll be using good old jack stands and instead of using your normal three ton jack stands
    I went out and I bought myself some 12 ton jack stands the 12 ton jack stands will give you a lot more lift than
    Your classic 3 ton, and I don't even have to extend the jack stand
    So they're gonna be a lot more stable
    Another trick when you're placing your Jack's you want to make sure you separate them as far apart as possible
    So they're not right underneath the transmission
    That way you could get your transmission jack under there and have plenty of room to work and drop that transmission out without
    interfering with your jack stands
    so for me the perfect place to put these Jack's was right on the frame rail and move them out far enough and it's also
    On a nice solid support and my last quick tip for lifting your vehicle up has to do with safety even though we have two
    Jack stands in the front and two in the rear
    I still like to go in the front and slide something underneath the front tires. We're using a ramp
    You could use a wheel whatever it is to keep you safe
    I also like to put a jack on the front crossmember
    lightly
    Supporting it just in case you never know if you're removing the transmission and then the transmission bumps the jack now the cars falling on
    A ramp and not falling on you
    I always like to play it safe and when your cars safely lifted up now we can move on to the next step which is
    To remove the negative battery cable
    so pop open the cover and
    Unscrew the clamp and slide the cable off the battery post set aside the cable and make sure it doesn't touch the battery post
    So with the negative cable removed now we could go on to our next step and let's remove this
    Shifter and the reason why you want to remove your shifter so early in the process. This is our third step
    We haven't gotten under the car
    We haven't drained transmission fluid done the exhaust any of that stuff, which could get you greasy and dirty right now
    I could touch the interior and not have to worry about anything because my hands are
    So make sure you do this first before you get your hands greasy
    now let's make sure the car is in neutral and just
    Unscrew the shift knob to remove it next remove the shifter trim by prying it upwards and slide it off the shifter lever
    now we could unscrew these two nuts holding the shifter lever on and then slide the lever off the shifter like so
    Then there's four bolts holding in the shifter boot. So unscrew all four of them
    And because I have my hydro you brake tied into one of these bolts
    I need to slide the boot cover up and over to remove it just like that
    And finally, there's four bolts holding in the short shifter
    so let's remove all these and
    Now we can remove this shifter and with our shifter removed that's going to give us a lot more room to drop the transmission down
    And nothing is gonna get hung up here
    It'll also help when we fill the transmission with transmission fluid later on because we could fill it from right here instead of the side
    Of the transmission, which becomes a mess
    so now we can move on to the next step which is to remove the exhaust now you want to double check because in some
    cars
    You might not need to remove your exhaust system to get your transmission out in this case our transmission runs from the front here all
    The way back to the X pipe, so we definitely have to remove the exhaust. Luckily. We don't have to remove the entire exhaust
    We're going to just remove from the downpipe up here to the X pipe right here
    But before we do that, we want to disconnect our oxygen sensors and instead of unscrewing each oxygen sensor from the exhaust
    It's a lot easier to just disconnect them from the wiring harness
    So just press down on this clip and then pull them apart like so
    So with the two downstream option sensors disconnected now, we need to remove the two upstream oxygen sensors
    There's one on this side of the exhaust right there. And there's one on the other side of the exhaust right there
    So press down on the clip and pull to disconnect it now
    We can move to the other side and disconnect this oxygen sensor the same way
    Good. So with all the oxygen sensors disconnected now, we can remove the nuts holding in this downpipe and holding in that down pipe
    So let's get started on the driver's side
    I like to spray down the exhaust fasteners with penetrating fluid anytime I go to remove them
    So they come off easier, especially if they're rusted now
    We could get our 18 millimeter socket and remove the top nut and then remove the bottom one
    Good. Now, let's do the same thing on the other side remove the top nut and for the bottom one
    we need to use a
    Universal joint extension because we don't have a straight shot at getting to that fastener since the frame is in the way so remove this
    Nut good and with the two front exhaust pipes disconnected now, we can move to the back bolts behind the X pipe
    There's four bolts that need to come out and using a ratcheting wrench makes this real quick and easy
    Now with all four rear fasteners removed we could separate the exhaust pipes and remove the exhaust from the car
    All right, so at the front of our exhaust removed now
    we could go back under the car and our next step is to drain the transmission fluid now we want to do this because
    We're gonna be removing the drive shaft, which means that fluid could come pouring out of the tail shaft
    Especially when we drop the transmission down. We don't want to make a mess
    So draining it now will prevent that mess
    We also are gonna be replacing the clutch you might as well get some new fluid in there
    so draining it out and filling up with some new fluid later will definitely help out and
    finally draining the fluid out now is gonna lighten up this transmission the lighter the
    Transmission the easier it is to remove so let's get that transmission fluid out of here and all you have to do
    Right over here. We have the transmission drain plug
    you're just gonna get a box end of a 3/8 ratchet and
    Just crack it open like so and don't forget the drain pin and let's loosen this the rest of the way
    beautiful now
    We're gonna let all this fluid drain out and once it drains completely we could screw the drain bolt back in and tighten it up
    Don't over tighten
    It just make it snug because you could easily strip the threads in the aluminum transmission case
    Alright and with our transmission fluid removed now, we can move on to our next step which is to remove the driveshaft
    We don't have to worry about the driveshaft on this end because this just slides out once we remove the bolts
    Where the driveshaft meets the differential now, there's four bolts holding this in since we're in neutral
    Let's spin the driveshaft you can see there's two bolts right here
    And there's two bolts on the other side
    Now you want to set the parking brake that way when we get our wrench on here and we turn it the driveshaft
    Doesn't move and one thing to keep an eye on with driveshaft bolts a lot of times
    They're not the normal six point bolt that you're used to in this case. We're removing twelve point bolts
    so just make sure that you're using a 12 point wrench or a 12 point socket when you're removing these bolts because the six point
    Will strip this out. So again with the twelve point wrench on here now, we can remove these bolts
    Oh, man, and that is not budging. Sometimes these get stuck on there pretty good
    So it'll the bolt heat up the metal surrounding the bolt
    And I'm also gonna be using a longer wrench to give me more leverage and there we go
    That's how you remove a stuck driveshaft bolt
    now follow the same process for the other bolts heat it up then loosen it and
    Remove it now release the ebrake and spin the driveshaft
    So we have access to the two other bolts
    Then engage that ebrake again and the same as before heat around the bolt loosen it up and remove it
    heat around the bolt loosen it up and
    Remove it now the driveshaft should come right out back here
    And in the front we want to slide it out with a catch can under the end of the transmission
    Just to catch any extra fluid that might leak out and one trick I have is to get a sandwich bag and open it up
    Around the end of the transmission. So when we lower it down, it won't leak everywhere if it tilts backwards
    All right, and with this driveshaft removed, we are one step closer to removing the transmission
    So let's get back underneath the car and work on the next step which is to remove the starter
    The starter is located right where the engine and transmission meet. And in this case. It's on the passenger side right over here
    So there are three bolts that are holding in our starter all of them
    You have to get two from this back side. The first one is right here
    The second one is right here and the third one. You can't even see it's tucked up back here
    so let's start with these two which are a lot easier to remove first get the oxygen sensor wire out of the way then we
    Need to break this nut free and then unscrew and remove this metal mount which is in the way now
    Let's remove the first bolt holding in the starter good and with that bolt out
    We don't have to disconnect any wires back here because we're gonna just have this starter. Hang right over here
    We don't have to remove it completely. We just need to get out of the transmission bellhousing
    So the next bolt we need to remove is this one right here and you can kind of feel it on the back here
    But there's no room in here to get a ratchet
    So what we're gonna do is we're gonna come around to the front of the engine and that's gonna give us better access
    So if you take a look into this gap right here
    You can see the second bolt that we need to get to and now to get all the way to that bolt
    We're going to be using a long extension. So slide that extension all the way in
    And get it on that bowhead
    Then we could break it loose and loosen it the rest of the way and I'll get my hand back here
    Good now to get to the third hard-to-reach bolt
    Which is all the way back here while the trick to removing that bolt is to use a little quarter inch ratchet with an extension
    and we'll get this ratchet back behind the starter get the socket on the bolt and
    Break it loose and there's just enough room to move the ratchet back and forth to unscrew the bolt
    So with that bolt removed now, we can remove the starter and set it aside
    so it's out of the way and now we can move on to the next step which is to
    Disconnect the wiring harness. We have a wiring harness that runs along the top of the transmission and it's clipped into the transmission
    So we want to disconnect it
    We don't actually have to remove it from the car
    Just disconnect it and set it off to the side so that we can lower the transmission down without this getting hung up
    So we're gonna start back here at the end of the wiring harness
    There's a clip right here that we're gonna remove using one of these trim removal tools
    So stick it underneath the clip and then pry upwards good. Now we have the speed sensor right here, which needs to get disconnected
    so just press down on the tab and pull this out and
    Then we have a clip here that needs to be popped out the reverse light switch here
    Which could just be unplugged and the other clip which could be popped out as well?
    Now we could set aside the harness and let's remove the dust cover on the transmission so we could remove the clutch cable
    This is the clutch cable and to remove it get a pry bar and release the pressure from the clutch fork and slide the cable
    Up and out of the fork
    then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the retaining clip and then the clutch cable could be removed from the transmission and
    Finally the last step before we remove the transmission. We need to remove the rear transmission mount right here. There's two bolts
    There's one there and there's one there
    But before we unbolt this we need to support the transmission
    So it doesn't just fall that could put unwanted stress on the motor mounts in the front
    So, let's slide the transmission jack in and crank it up
    Good now we could strap down the transmission using the strap built into the jack and make sure it's tight
    So this transmission won't fall off the jack
    So with the transmission being strapped in and held up by the transmission jack now
    We could remove the two bolts holding in this transmission mount starting with the driver side bolt
    And once that's loose just wiggle it out like so and let's break free and remove the second and last bolt holding in this mount
    Good alright, so with our transmission mount unbolted Wow, look at this
    There is so much play in this transmission mount we're gonna have to replace that
    But anyway with this unbolted
    We've completed all of our steps so we could finally unbolt and remove the transmission and to do that
    We need to unbolt the transmission from the engine. There are nine bolts holding this transmission in there's three bolts on this side
    There's two bolts under the transmission
    there's two bolts on top of the transmission and there's two bolts on the other side now to give you a better idea of where
    All the bolts are laid out. Here's what it looks like without the transmission
    You can see we have three bolts on the driver's side. We have two bolts on the bottom
    We have the two bolts on the passenger side and then the two bolts at the top and now that you know
    Where all nine bolts are located. This is actually really simple. The hardest ones are the two at the top, but don't worry
    They're not that bad to get to and I have a trick to make it really easy
    So let's get started and remove the three bolts on the driver side over here. That's one
    Two
    and
    Three and with those three bolts removed you saw how easy that was now, let's remove the bottom two bolts
    So let's get this one off right here
    Good and then the other one as well
    Good, and then there's two more bolts on the passenger side. That's one and
    That's the other all right
    Now we only have two more bolts on the top of the transmission and we can't see them on the passenger side
    So we have to go to the driver's side in the back and if you look all the way on the top you can see
    The bolt head right there and the other bolt which is right next to this bolt
    You can't see it's on the other side of the transmission, but it's right next to it. Only a few inches to the side
    So there are two ways to get to the two top bolts
    The first way is to lower the transmission down a little bit with the jack
    So it tilts the motor and tranny backwards and then get a really long
    extension with a
    universal joint at the end and
    We're gonna slide that extension in and that will allow us to get to both the driver side bolt and the passenger side bolt
    but I have another method that works for this car and it's a lot easier and
    The second method is to grab a long ratcheting wrench and get to both of those bolts from the back of the engine bay
    So we're gonna start with the passenger side bolt. Just get that wrench on there and let's break it free
    Perfect. This is way easier than trying to do this from below the car now do the same thing on the driver's side
    Break it free
    Unscrew it and remove the bolt. And with this last bolt out all the transmission bolts have been removed
    now what I like to do is I like to place them in order and exactly how they came out of the
    Transmission that way you stay organized and know which bolts go exactly where so we have our two bottom bolts
    We have the three driver side to passenger side and two top bolts
    So with all the bolts out now
    We could go underneath the car and finally remove the transmission
    Now before we go and remove the transmission over the years
    there's a lot of dust buildup inside that bell housing from the clutch and we don't want to breed that dust in it's very very
    Bad also older clutches could be made with asbestos
    So what I like to do is just get some plain water and spray down the inside of the bell housing
    This will get a lot of that dust wet, so it doesn't become airborne the less dust the better
    I also recommend that you use a good respirator like this full face respirator has two p100 filters filters out
    99% of airborne particles it'll also protect your eyes and I'll be sure to link this in the description
    so
    You know the right one to get for this job and one more quick tip before we separate the transmission
    We want to support the engine if we remove the transmission the engine can tilt backwards or it could tilt forwards and could cause damage
    So just use your jacks with a piece of wood to evenly distribute the load on the oil pan and lightly
    Jack up the engine. We don't want to press hard on it. We just want to support it now
    we could finally separate the transmission from the engine and I like to use a pry bar to get it started because
    Sometimes they could get stuck on there then wiggle the transmission loose a little and pull it straight
    Back and again from the other side. I'm using a pry bar to separate it even further now with a little pulling and wiggling
    Beautiful the transmission should come right out just like that. So let's lower it down and we can remove it from under the car
    Alright with the transmission removed
    now you want to replace the parts that went bad like
    This throw out bearing look at how much play is in here. And that was definitely what was making the noise
    so we need to replace this with a new one now is also a good time to check for play in the input shaft the
    Engine spins this so it's an important part of the transmission. There should be no play. Oh, man, that's not good
    There shouldn't be this much play in the input chef
    You see how much movement there is up and down inside the side on a good transmission that this wouldn't budge
    So that means that this transmission needs a rebuild
    So luckily with the magic of editing out with the old and in with the new so I ended up getting a completely rebuilt transmission
    Everything inside of here is brand new and you can see the input shift now has no play at all in it. Perfect
    and since I had to remove the transmission to replace the throw out bearing I
    Figured now would be a good time to replace the clutch pressure plate flywheel rear main seal and pilot bearing
    But I'm not going to cover that in this video
    I made an entire video on how to replace a clutch and all these other parts and I'll be sure to link that video in
    The description so you can easily find it
    So I'm gonna get all these parts into the car
    Good, and now we could go and install the new transmission now the old transmission has a few parts
    We need to move over from the old one to the new one and the first thing being this transmission mount
    So let's remove the mounting bracket by removing these two nuts good and then the mount itself is held in with two bolts
    So let's remove those and the mount comes right off now we want to remove the speed sensor located on the side of the transmission
    So remove the single bolt holding it in and the sensor should pull right out
    so let's transfer this over to our new transmission remove the plug push the speed sensor in and
    Finally snug up the bolt holding this in good now
    Let's install the transmission mount and if you guys remember this transmission mount was shot
    I mean look at that came right apart in my hands so out with the old broken mount and in with a nice brand new
    One so let's go get this installed
    So screw both bolts by hand and I am using medium strength thread Locker on these threads then we could torque down both of these
    bolts to 80
    Foot-pounds now add the lower bracket and then that gets torque to 50 foot-pounds
    And the last thing we need to do is install our new clutch fork and throw out bearing and that just slides right in
    Just like that beautiful now we could go and install the transmission
    Now before we go and try to mount the transmission up against the engine what I want to do, there's a metal support bar
    Right here, which might interfere with trying to mount up the transmission
    So I'm gonna quickly remove both bolts that hold this in it takes a few seconds and it'll make our lives so much easier
    Now we want to get the transmission in place. So Jack it up
    So it's level with the clutch and the input chef lines up with the pilot bearing hole for my car
    I jack up the front of the engine to tilt the motor a little bit like that. It lines up better with the transmission
    So the transmission could go straight in now. Here's an inside view of the installation
    You want the input shaft to go through the pressure plate and clutch and push all the way on to the engine like that?
    Again, but from the outside we want to line up the transmission and wiggle it as we push the transmission up against the engine mounting
    surface
    Like that and you want to make sure the transmission is completely seated against the back of the engine
    There should be no gap here. You don't want to put bolts in and tighten the bolts down and close the gap
    There should be no gap at all around the entire perimeter of the transmission
    so now we could hand tighten all the bolts around the
    transmission and on these bolts you want to be sure to use medium strength thread Locker that way the
    vibrations of the engine and transmission won't loosen the bolts while you're driving and let's hand tighten the two bolts on the passenger side as
    well and
    Finally, we could hand tighten the two bolts at the top of the transmission
    Here's the first top bolt and let's get that in there hand tight and here's the second top bolt again
    Get it in there hand tight and since we're up here, let's torque down the first bolt
    But there isn't room for a torque wrench, so I'm just gonna do it by feel and it should be about 46 foot-pounds
    Good now we could use a torque wrench and torque the rest of these bolts in a crisscross pattern
    246 foot-pounds don't tighten the bolts right next to the last one instead tighten the bolt across from the last one
    So, you know the transmission is mounting to the engine evenly and we'll finish up here with the other top bolt
    Good
    Alright with those main transmission bolts torqued. Now we have these two less bolts
    We need to tighten down which hold the bottom of the separator plate to the transmission
    So tighten these down but don't over tighten them because they're threaded into the aluminum bell housing
    Good and we're almost done. All that's left is just installing everything that we removed. I'm gonna quickly go through this
    It's gonna be nice and easy. There's gonna be a little bit of a difference because we do have to add transmission fluid
    I'll show you how to do that. It's really simple
    So let's get all this done so we could go for our test drive
    now before we go and lower this transmission jack
    We want to install the two bolts holding in the transmission mounts to the rear. The transmission doesn't fall
    And so I don't have to mention it over and over basically all the bolts that I'm going to be installing are gonna have medium
    Strength thread Locker on them because it's gonna prevent those vibrations from loosening it up
    It also prevents the threads from getting rusty
    if you live in an area where there's a lot of rust so let's get these two bolts in and
    Then torque them down to around 40 foot-pounds now, we can remove the transmission jack
    So let's lower it down all the way and remove it now. Let's install the front
    k-member brace that we took off to make it easier to install the transmission and torque these two bolts down to 50 foot-pounds and since
    We're here. We might as well install the clutch cable. So take the cable and fish it through the hole
    Then grab the retaining clip and push it into the slot
    Now use a pry bar to push the clutch fork forward so we can mount the cable into the clutch fork like that
    Finally, we could add the clutch fork cover and tighten down the bolt that holds it in next
    Let's reattach our wiring harness start by pushing the clips into the mounting holes on the transmission
    Then we could attach the reverse light sensor pigtail by pushing it in place one of my plastic retaining Clips broke
    So I'm going to be using a zip tie to hold the wire to the transmission which will work perfectly now
    let's bring the rest of the harness to the back of the transmission and connect the pigtail to the speed sensor and with that our
    Wiring harness is in place. So let's go install the starter
    So get the starter mounted in place into the bell housing and then hand tighten the bottom bolt first
    Then the side bolt and finally the top bolt
    Unfortunately, there's not enough room to get to the top or bottom bolts with a torque wrench
    So instead I'm gonna be using a regular wrench and these bolts get tightened down to 18 foot pounds for the middle bolt
    we can reach it with a long extension so that could get torqued down and for the last bolt we could use a wrench to
    Get back here and tighten it
    Good and one last thing we need to install the mounting bracket plate for the oxygen sensor pigtail
    So get that tightened in place and then the pigtail pushes right in okay with our starter installed now
    Let's go and install our driveshaft before you insert it into the transmission
    You want to clean the end of the driveshaft make sure there's no dirt or dust on it
    And then I like to lubricate it with a little bit of transmission fluid just so it doesn't go and dry when installing the driveshaft
    Push it in as you turn a little to get the splines to line up to the transmission like that
    Then we can install the rear of the driveshaft to the differential line up the bolt holes and let's get a bolt in to hold
    It in place now, we're gonna hand tighten these two bolts and then turn the driveshaft and hand tighten the other two bolts
    Unfortunately a torque wrench doesn't fit in here
    So I'm going to tighten it with a regular wrench and all four of these bolts have to get torqued to about 95 pants
    So that's pretty much as hard as I could pull on this good now
    We could rotate to the other two and tighten these two down as well good and with all four bolts tightened down
    Our driveshaft is in now. Let's go and add our transmission fluid and to do that
    There is a fill plug at the top of our transmission right there
    so let's get a ratchet on here to break that fill plug loose and then remove the fill plug and
    Now we could add our transmission fluid
    So what you would do is you get your hose you'd stick it in the fill hole and you pump that fluid into the fill
    Hole until it starts coming out now. This could take a while, but I have an even faster method
    That's a lot easier and that method is to fill it using the hole where your shifter goes
    So put a funnel where the shifter goes and you could fill it from right here
    Just be careful not to spill it because we don't want to get our interior dirty and look at how much easier this is
    Now, I'm not sure if you notice but my car's transmission takes automatic transmission fluid. It takes a little over three quarts
    so make sure you check your owners manual to see the specific type of fluid you need and the amount of fluid you'll need so
    On the fourth bottle. I'm gonna keep an eye on the fill hole and once fluid starts coming out
    The transmission is full good now put the fill plug back in
    Clean up that dripping fluid and then tighten the plug
    So it's snug and with our transmission filled now we can move on to installing the exhaust
    So let's lift the front of the exhaust into place
    Then torque each of the four nuts down to thirty foot pounds for a good seal and don't forget to connect the two oxygen sensors
    Up here and these rear two oxygen sensors back here
    good now we can finish up by getting the bolts in the rear of the exhaust and
    Tighten these down so it clamps the exhaust together for a leak-free seal same with the other pipe
    Make sure you tighten the bolts evenly so no exhaust seams leak out beautiful. Now, let's go install the shifter
    So with the gasket in place mount the shifter onto the transmission and tighten down all four bolts in a crisscross pattern
    This will evenly seat the shifter now. Let's add our shifter boot and
    tighten these four bolts to hold it in place
    Then we could add the shifter handle tighten those two nuts. So it's secure and then add our interior shift trim
    So that snaps in place. And finally the last thing to do is to screw the shift knob on
    Beautiful now we could get our negative battery cable connect it to the battery
    And tighten the clamp so it's secure. All right, and with that everything is connected and put back together
    Now we have one more thing we need to do and that is get the car back on the ground
    So remove the jack stands in the front and I'm gonna lower the front tires on two ramps
    Otherwise the front bumper will be tilted so low I wouldn't be able to remove the jack now
    we see jack up the rear of the car remove both of these jack stands and
    Lower the car down to the ground
    With our old transmission out and our new transmission in we are on the most
    Exciting part of the job and that is testing out our new transmission so clutch in. We're in neutral. Let's start her up
    She's starting right up so let's go for a test drive
    For our test drive. We want to go through each gear nice and easy
    Make sure there's no grinds make sure it goes into each gear
    And this already feels so much better than the old transmission
    Now once we're in Top Gear we'll downshift to make sure your rep match
    The gear should pop right in and this feels beautiful now for the first 500 miles
    You don't want to drive hard. You want to break in the transmission with regular driving. Don't do burnouts
    No dropping the clutch
    No hard shifting that way our new transmission the clutch the flywheel all that stuff could break in properly and they'll last a good long
    time
    All right, so that is how you remove replace and install a transmission in your car or truck in this case
    This was a rear-wheel drive setup
    But if you're wondering it's very similar for a front-wheel drive setup instead of removing a drive shaft. You're gonna be removing axle shafts
    otherwise very very similar
    Also if you have an automatic again, very similar
    You're gonna have a torque converter in here that's bolted up to a flywheel or flex plate
    You're gonna have to unbolt that before you drop the transmission. You might also have cooler lines going to the transmission
    Otherwise again very similar. And from this video you should be able to replace it
    Hopefully this video was helpful. If it was remember to give it a thumbs up
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    For more how-to videos like this and as always all the tools and products I used in this video are linked in the description
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