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How to Sew a Partial Zipper - Quarter Zipper

How to Sew a Partial Zipper - Quarter Zipper
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    Have you ever wanted to create a fleece pullover but was unsure how to add the partial zipper
    placket? I'll show you how do it in a few easy steps. Let's go ahead and get started.
    First, I'm going to take my front bodice piece. This bodice is eventually going to
    have a collar sewn to the top but it's not attached yet.
    Measure your zipper that you want to insert.
    Then measure your finished collar width. This means the width of the collar, minus seam
    allowance. Mine is 2"
    I'm going to subtract that number from my zipper length. So my zipper is 9" minus
    2" which means I'm left with 7"
    Now on my bodice I'm going to draw a line down from the center of my neckline that's
    the length of my math formula so, in my case, a line that's 7".
    Now I want to make a box around my line that's the same length but a ½" in width. So there
    will be lines on both sides of my center line a ¼" away. So the total size of my box
    is 7" long by ½" in width.
    Take your bodice to your sewing machine and sew a straight stitch on all your lines, except
    for the center line. This will reinforce the area for putting in our zipper.
    Now cut directly on your center line but stop about ¼" away from the bottom and instead
    cut to the corners of the box. This will create our placket.
    Next you'll continue sewing your bodice together, meaning that I would sew the front
    bodice and back bodice together at the shoulder and side seams.
    Then I'll attach my collar to the neckline. The edges of my collar will begin and end
    at my cut line on my front bodice.
    Take your zipper and fold the top of the zipper tape over to the right side.
    Baste each side of the zipper tape in place.
    Unzip your zipper
    Place the front bodice, right side up. Place the zipper right side down, matching the right
    edge of the zipper tape with the left edge of the placket. The bottom edge of the zipper
    should be at the bottom of your stitch box and the top of the zipper should be at the
    top of your finished collar.
    You'll notice that it doesn't look like my zipper goes to the top of my collar, that's
    because when finished, the top half of my collar eventually goes on the inside of my
    pullover. So, if I were to fold it, you can now see that the zipper will be at the top
    of the finished collar.
    Pin your zipper in place and then take it back to your machine and baste directly on
    your reinforcing stitch again, so ¼" away from the raw edge.
    Now, you'll take the other side of your zipper tape and repeat the same process with
    the right side of the placket, pinning and basting in place.
    So now my zipper is attached to the two sides of the placket but the bottom of the zipper
    is still loose.
    Flip your bodice to the wrong side and look at the bottom of your stitch box. You should
    have a triangle shaped cut out. Pin this and the bottom of the zipper tape together and
    then stitch this section only at your sewing machine.
    Continue on with your garment construction but after you finish sewing your collar into
    place, go back to the right side of the bodice, and sew a straight stitch around the three
    sides of the zipper, giving you a finished look.
    Now that the zipper is inserted, you can continue sewing the pullover and you'll be left with
    a professional looking garment.
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